Venetian Plaster as seen on Trading Spaces
Intro
Venetian plaster is a relatively modern
term used to describe an ancient stuccoed surface coating. Like many
traditional plastering techniques, this one achieves its effect with a
combination of unique materials and skilled application. The recipe for
Venetian plaster is based on a mix of aged slaked lime, ground marble dust, and
pigment. At one time, Roman craftsmen went through a laborious and painstaking
number of steps to achieve the intended effect. Fortunately, newer products
have made it possible for do-it-yourselfers to create similar visual results
with no special training and only a few steps. And the addition of acrylic
polymers to the recipe results in a much more durable and long-lasting surface.
Look for Venetian plaster at home
centers and paint stores. It is sold in one-gallon cans, just like paint. Some
products are sold already tinted; others require that you or your dealer add
universal colorants to achieve the color you want. The latter approach
obviously offers far more color choices than buying tinted plaster own.
Shopping List
Required
Steel trowel
Sandpaper
Venetian plaster (tinted or neutral base)
Optional
Gloves
Drop cloth
Primer
Paintbrush
Roller
Roller cover
Paint tray
Universal colorants (if using untinted plaster)
Butchers Brand Paste Wax (Clear or Amber)
Prep the Room, and Yourself
Venetian plaster may look like another
type of paint finish, but it's not. And having good painting skills will not
guarantee satisfactory results if you jump right into the job. I strongly
suggest that you buy a couple of sheets of drywall and practice with different
approaches until you achieve the look you want. Experiment with the angles at
which you hold the trowel, the length and shape of your strokes, and the amount
of texture you create on the surface. Try different finishing treatments to
achieve the depth and sheen you like. If you are tinting the plaster yourself,
you will also want to play around with the quantity of colorants needed for the
color you want.
Clear the room as much as possible, and
spread a drop cloth on the floor. You can apply Venetian plaster to most walls
and ceilings, but the surface should be flat and smooth. If there are any
cracks or holes, fill and sand them first. The surfaces should be primed or
covered with flat paint. Glossy paint surfaces can be plastered over as long as
you first sand the surface lightly to remove the sheen. Read the instruction on
the can of Venetian plaster carefully for additional preparation requirements
Steel trowels often have very sharp
corners, which can leave lines and scratch marks in the plaster. To avoid this
problem, sand the corners with 100-grit sandpaper to round them over.
You may want to wear gloves when mixing
and applying the plaster, as it can irritate the skin. Eye protection should
also be worn if you are spreading it overhead. Mix the Venetian plaster
thoroughly before each use.
Apply the First Coat
There are two approaches you can use
for the first coat. The manufacturer of the product you use may recommend one
or the other, but I suggest that you experiment with both on a sample board to
decide which you prefer. Venetian plaster is traditionally applied with special
steel trowels that resemble wood-handled dough dividers. You should be able to
find a trowel near the plaster at the store. But you can have just as much
success spreading Venetian plaster with a 4- or 6-inch steel trowel that is
used for applying joint compound to drywall. With the first technique, this is
the only application tool you will need.
Open the can of plaster, and add the
tint, if necessary. Mix the ingredients thoroughly with a stir stick. Start at
a corner of the room. Scoop some plaster on the trowel and then, holding the
trowel at a 20- to 30-degree angle, apply a thin coat to the surface. Continue
spreading plaster while varying the length and angles of your strokes. Don't
worry about covering every square millimeter evenly, as you would if you were
painting. Let some of the original wall surface show through in spots. Keep the
coat thin and reasonably smooth. Clean off the trowel from time to time so that
you don't find yourself spreading bits of dried plaster into your finish. Let
the plaster dry thoroughly before applying the next coat.
The other technique requires that you
apply the first coat with a roller and a thick nap roller cover. This will produce
an initial finish with more pronounced texture than the first technique. The
trick is that you will need to go over the finish while still wet with a steel
trowel to smooth over the peaks somewhat. This approach should prove to be
quicker on large surfaces, but you need to vigilant about troweling the surface
before it starts drying.
Apply the Second Coat
Use the same color of plaster for the
second coat. Holding the trowel at a 60- to 80-degree angle, apply another thin
layer of plaster. Use overlapping (X-shaped) long and short strokes. Cover the
surface thoroughly, filling voids and removing high spots. Let the plaster dry
for at least a full day before moving on to the finish treatment.
Most of the do-it-yourself products
that I have seen do not discuss applying any more than two coats, perhaps
because they don't want to make the process sound any more involved than it is.
But additional coats can be useful. Each new layer makes the surface stronger,
and by varying your technique with the trowel from one coat to another, you can
create even more interesting effects. Just be sure to keep each coat thin.
Finishing Touches
The final steps involve burnishing or
polishing the surface, and perhaps applying a topcoat. The topcoat will add
durability to the surface, and is particularly recommended in rooms with high
moisture (such as bathrooms) and high traffic. If you decide to use a topcoat,
however, be sure to choose a product that is specifically recommended for the
brand of plaster that you used. Also be sure to use it as directed on the
label. Some manufacturers suggest that you burnish before applying their
topcoat, others say to follow the reverse order.
Burnishing can be accomplished by
rubbing the surface with very fine sandpaper (400 or 600 grit). Use a circular
motion while sanding, and then clean the surface with a damp cloth. You can
create a more polished look by rubbing the surface with the flat side of a
clean trowel or putty knife.
The topcoat is usually applied with a
trowel soon after the plaster has dried. You should expect that the topcoat
will darken the color a bit. Once dry, you can burnish the surface with the
flat side of a clean trowel or putty knife.
You can also create a good sheen and
add protection to the surface by using Butcher’s Boston Polish or Bowling Alley
paste wax for the topcoat. That's what Doug did in the kitchen of the